After stocking up on instant noodles at a local supermarket we headed off to Kharugh the first and only major Tajik town on the pamir. We had no idea what we were in for. The roads started off well but gradually became worse and worse. As the road wound up through the mountains we were faced with sheer drops to our right, hundreds of feet down. The going was slow as the Panda and Alto had to be careful with such low ground clearance. We camped up on a small plateau, cooked noodles, pasta, beef paste (ground beef in a tin) and opened the vodka. We thought the roads were bad on our first day, we had no idea what was instore for us on the next day.